Fashions for the ages
SHOCKINGLY irreverent or a fashion icon’s tribute to Judaism? Designer Jean Paul Gaultier is no stranger to controversy, but even that enduring enfant terrible must have been rattled by the fury that met his 1993 haute couture collection, Rabbi Chic, inspired by Chassidic traditions.
Paris’s ultra-Orthodox community was outraged by the collection designed for men and women, and modelled by both sexes sporting side-curls and shtreimels.
Now those contentious outfits are back – this time as exhibits in The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk, which opened with maximum fanfare at the National Gallery of Victoria on October 17.
So how does Rabbi Chic fare 21 years on? It is the standout in the section devoted to ethnic influences, from flamenco to Bollywood. And far from making a mockery of Chassidism, the ensembles captivate with their austere, yet exotic allure.
They are also firmly in context: just one facet of an extraordinary retrospective, from 1971 to an evolving present – latest collection pieces have been added for Melbourne – that celebrate Gaultier’s maverick talent, versatility and showmanship.
Securing the blockbuster that made its debut at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts (MMFA) in 2011 and is on a tour of selected world capitals – Melbourne is the only one chosen in the Asia-Pacific region – is a tremendous coup for the NGV and its director, Tony Ellwood.
Before Melbourne’s opening, more than a million visitors have flocked to the extravaganza that showcases more than 140 outfits from Gaultier’s haute couture, red carpet and ready-to-wear collections, plus a host of extra attractions, and it’s a safe bet that many of those visitors returned at least once, and not just to marvel at the rich creativity and exquisite workmanship.
This is fashion as thoroughly immersive entertainment – and a powerful learning experience – thanks to MMFA which initiated, developed and produced The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier under the direction of the museum’s chief, Nathalie Bondil.
Curated by Thierry-Maxime Loriot, the exhibition features numerous show-stoppers including a moving catwalk, complete with Paris salon-style seating; fabulous gowns designed for a raft of stars – among them, Gaultier’s first haute couture client, Nicole Kidman – and the eye-popping corsets and conical bras that thrust their way into the public’s consciousness via Madonna’s 1990 Blond Ambition world tour.
But the big, jaw-dropping hit is the high definition, audio-visual wizardry of Montreal’s UB/Compagnie de Creation, applied to 32 of the display mannequins specially made for the exhibition by Canada’s Jolicoeur International.
At first glance, they are the usual inanimate, if exceptionally realistic, clothes horses. Then there’s that moment of shocked disbelief as the mannequins’ faces come to life and … good grief, they can see and speak!
The numerous creative greats in fashion, photography, art, music, cinema, dance and theatre who have collaborated with Gaultier are given rich tribute in the exhibition. So are his Australian muses including Kidman, Kylie Minogue, Gemma Ward and transgender sensation Andreja Pejic.
Effortlessly dominating all is the irrepressible Jean Paul Gaultier. At the packed media launch where he held court with curator Loriot and Pejic – the latter scrumptious in a cream and peach sheath dress – the 62-year-old Paris-born designer’s wit and charm were in full throttle.
It was more chat show than media conference and had the desired effect. The crowd was spellbound.
The World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk is at the National Gallery of Victoria, 180 St Kilda Road, Melbourne until February 8, 2015. Inquiries: www.ngv.vic.gov.au.
REPORT by Zelda Cawthorne
PHOTO of Jean Paul Gaultier with models Andreja Pejic (right) and Alexandra Agoston at the opening night of his exhibition at the National Gallery of Victoria. Photo by Anthony Licuria
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